Dear Maia and Isaac,
Wow – It has been 7 years since I earned my Doctorate of Nursing Practice and took my celebration road trip through Utah, starting at Hovenweep. And, every year since (except during COVID) I have come back to spend time at this place to celebrate my success! It is something I savor every year – usually the last camping trip of summer. This one ended right at the equinox. This year is special because it is Hovenweep’s 100th birthday!
Day One: Arrival
We arrived at Hovenweep in the late afternoon on a Monday. Perhaps the weirdest part of retirement camping is leaving to go camping on Monday morning. At any rate, the big event on day 1 was watching the sunset through a stormy sky.







This was little Cimarron’s first real camping trip with us. I was scared to death she would back out of the halter I had her in. The previous 3 weeks since I adopted her was filled with trial and error of halters and dealing with her fear-aggression about the same. I wasn’t even sure she liked me anymore. But, she seemed to thrive during this trip!
Day 2: Main Trail Hike
The next day, we got up and hiked the main trail. It is always awesome to see the ancient castles along the canyon walls. I have a zillion photos and last year, I even shot video. This year, I was concentrating on keeping dogs in order. It was a good hike, the weather was warm but not too hot. In my opinion, this is the best time of year to go. It’s still a little hot in the afternoon, a little chilly at night, and the days are getting pretty short.









I have written about this place many times – you can search the blog if you like. The main trail is a spiritual place to me – I can close my eyes and see Hovenweep Castle, Boulder House, The Twin Towers, and Sleeping Ute Mountain at any place/at any time. I need to do more with fine art paintings of my Hovenweep photos – maybe a tile clock or two of the scenery. How funny, turning such a timeless place into a timepiece. Each brick reminds me how small my current-day worries really are.
Day 3: The Trek to Horseshoe & Hackberry Ruins
Most people get in their SUV and drive right up to this cluster of ruins. But, not us. We park under a juniper tree at the main road and hike a mile down the dirt road to the actual hike to the ruins. Why? Because this isn’t a good road for a Honda Fit and Hovenweep isn’t a good place to get stuck in a ditch. It takes a while to hike in and out with 3 little dogs. I have carried both Maizzy and Sazi down this road in their later years. People stop and ask us if we need a ride. A mile is not all that far – but we do pick days with a decent forecast and have yet to get stuck in the weather.
















This particular day was perfect. The direct sun was shaded by light cloud cover so the pups were comfortable. I was surprised Cimarron did so well because our trial hike the week prior was a lot of screaming over a pine needle she stepped on and needing to be carried. But, today, for the first time in years, the entire pack walked the entire way on their own.
After the jeep-type road for a mile, you get to the real trail and there is some shuffling over rocks, etc. But, overall it is a pretty flat hike. The ruins here are much more scattered and secluded than the main trail. It is like coming across a treasure to spot one in the distance. The canyons beyond the ruins are gorgeous. Truly, Canyons of the Ancients.
We got back in the early afternoon and I was starving! I bring snacks and canned food – and I was enjoying the chocolate-covered cranberries! I also look forward to reading during the heat of the day. It is such a nice setting to enjoy a good book.
Day 4: Cajon, The Wind, The Shrub
The next day, all hell broke loose. It felt like a giant blow dryer was aimed at us all day. We hiked and rock-scrambled to the Visitors Center that morning. I saw the ranger digging up a ton of yellow-blooming shrubs – his whole truck bed was full. I asked if he would part with one – and he said he was just dumping them because they grow too thick and become a nuisance. OMG – I felt like a federal criminal with a plant dug out of a National Monument in my possession. (I am writing this in January so it is way too soon to tell if this guy will actually survive but it would be cool if it did.)













The afternoon was spent reading – until about 4 PM. The wind was still awful but the temp was a little better. I loaded up the bored dogs and drove to the Cajon Ruin group. It is several miles down the road and down a Navajo dirt road. The marker is a little tricky to find, but we can drive most the way to the slickrock parking area in the Fit.
I only recently discovered this ruin group – it is a good choice for an iffy weather day. The hike through the ruins is super short – but the view of the valley below is absolutely breathtaking. And, this ruin group is more condensed and stately looking than Holly and Horseshoe. The wind was not fun and the dogs were glad to get back to the tent.
Day 5: Canyons of the Ancients and the Trip Home
Day 5 brought our trip home. We have our traditions – like lunch at Arby’s (nice after 5 days of soup) and the local plant nursery. After that. we stopped at the Canyons of the Ancients Visitor Center near Dolores and hiked up to the ruins. We have done this one-mile trip many, many times. Great vistas of Mesa Verde, Sleeping Ute Mountain, and the valley. By then, we were ready to head home.









I can’t believe I won’t see the inside of my tent until May 2024! I feel the grief but am grateful for all the places we camped out this year. I love my little cloth motel on wheels. Here are our camping spots for 2023 in order:
- Ridgway State Park, Colorado
- Vega State Park, Colorado
- Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado
- Rifle Gap State Park, Colorado
- Dinosaur National Monument, Utah/Colorado
- Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, Utah
- Steamboat and Pearl Lake State Parks, Colorado
- State Forest State Park, Colorado
- Boyd Lake State Park, Colorado
- Hovenweep National Monument, Utah/Colorado
What will next year bring?
Love Ya’all, Cathy Hartt (Grandma Hartt)
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